theHword.com

This is the first of a series of stories on Hastings entrepreneurs that recently appeared in the Hastings Tribune. Thanks to the Tribune for allowing us to share these stories on TheHWord.com!

Enjoy!

Back Alley Bakery Isn’t Loafing Around

By John Huthmacher
(Story & Photo Courtesy Hastings Tribune)

What began as a friendly bread baking competition between friends John Hamburger and Todd Brown in 2003 has grown into a dough-making venture for the owners of Back Alley Bakery, one of Hastings’ more unique eateries.

John (front right), Charlotte (front middle) and Ellen Hamburger (front left) pose with their employees at the Back Alley Bakery Jan. 26. Photo by Brent McCown, Hastings Tribune

The bakery, which opened its doors to the public on a strictly part-time basis in the fall of 2004, has evolved into a full-time eatery that serves light breakfasts and healthy lunches. Its antique decor — uncovered during its 2008 expansion project — hearkens back to turn of the 20th century times, complete with original tin ceiling, wood floor, and partially exposed brick walls. Recycled building materials garnered from other aged structures around town complete the picture.

“We did everything we could to keep costs low,” said John’s wife, Charlotte, who now works full time at the bakery. “It’s a very simple kind of slow-moving operation. It’s not a high-tech, state-of-the-art kitchen by any means.
“We just kept our costs as low as we could and serve the type of food that uses slow cook methods. We use the oven to roast our meats and have a big cauldron we make our soups in. It’s nothing fancy, but we’re trying to make sure everything is as fresh and local and organic as possible.”
And that, she said, is what has kept the newly vamped operation jumping.

“I just wanted to introduce people nowadays to what real bread should be,” John said. “Not mass-produced with yeast, but handmade like our forefathers have been doing it for centuries. There’s more to it than production line and it’s better for you.”

When Brown purchased the building in 2003 as a rental property, it included a small room behind one of the rental spaces that was just the right size to house the kind of old-world brick oven John was looking to build.
And so John, who heralds from the Carmichael Construction business family, decided to tackle the project. Following the plans of renowned master oven crafter Alan Scott, John erected the Roman-style dome oven inside the small unit located just off the alley running parallel with Second Street.

For the next year, he and Charlotte began baking artisan-style breads to share with friends. As their skills improved, demand grew. That’s when they decided to open a bakery on a part-time basis and offer their breads to the public. Partners Bryce Wiebe and Ellen Hamburger, the couple’s daughter, became partners in the venture.

“We developed quite a good following,” Charlotte said. “I was just thrilled with the way we were received by the people that we knew when we were doing it two days a week,” John said. “I was amazed people would stand in line in the alley backed up all the way to the parking lot just to get it.

“Six years later, we’ve evolved into a restaurant trying to do the same kind of things with food rather than just bread. With the slow food movement, people are getting away from the fast food and preferring non-processed food products.”

It was in late 2008 — around the same time the couple began looking into expanding its operation — that fate intervened. The owners of Great Dames, the tenants occupying the spacious unit abutting theirs and fronting Second Street, announced they were moving out. And with that, the Hamburgers decided to take a chance and expand their small business venture.

“The opportunity was too ripe to pass it up, being able to use that space on Second Street,” Charlotte said. “We decided that we probably could increase our volume quite a bit if we were not so hidden back in the alley. There were a lot of people who said, ‘I’ve heard of you but can’t find you,’ so we decided to roll the dice and go ahead and move up there.”

Assistance provided by Randy Chick of the city’s Community Redevelopment Authority program helped make the family’s vision a reality, John said. Having a Facebook account to help spread word of the bakery hasn’t hurt, either, he said.

“Facebook and the CRA are pretty big things for the restaurant,” he said.
Moving forward with the expansion project has paid off in a big way, Charlotte said.

“We’ve seen our business really take off,” she said. “We’ve been very blessed with having lots of happy lunch visitors, and our bakery sales have increased quite a bit. We’re very glad we made this decision.

“At the very beginning, we were only open Fridays and Saturdays. Now we’re open Monday through Saturday and employ a good solid 10 people.”

Because of overwhelming customer support, Charlotte said she and her partners also hope to serve hot breakfasts and an occasional five-course dinner event at the bakery at some point.

“We’re constantly looking for new and different combinations and different recipes that are not readily available around Hastings,” she said.

For now, they’ll continue to work on new and different ways to meet the needs of their ever-growing customer base, using local products in their daily food and beverage offerings whenever possible.

“People do notice and care that our menu items are made with healthy ingredients,” she said. “That our brands are bought locally and baked by people in an old-style oven means something to them. They know where it comes from.”

That customers have suggested expanding the business into Kearney or Grand Island is encouraging to John, an affirmation that the bakery’s success isn’t likely to wane anytime soon.

“The excitement for each step has been phenomenal,” he said. “I would have never dreamed we would have been taken so well. Can you imagine going to any restaurant where’s there’s not fried food, other than the Barrel Bar and us? It’s completely different than what people are used to.”

About the author: theHword